Mako 40

Orient has quietly built its own automatic movements for decades, which is what makes the Mako such an outlier. This is a real in-house diver, hacking and hand-winding, sapphire crystal and all, in a 40mm case that finally sizes the Mako for a modern wrist.

The 75th Anniversary dial is the reason this one came home. A soft ice-blue base under a fine radial guilloche that fans out from the centre like light off water, warmed by a few gold accents on the handset. It shifts between a tool watch and something almost dressy depending on how it catches the room.

Nothing here is trying to punch above its station. It simply does everything a mechanical diver should, made by people who clearly enjoy making them.